![]() ![]() Frequent water changes are more of a modern thing in the hobby. If you are using water changes as your primary source of nutrient export, you need to focus on balancing your tank first and foremost.ĮDIT: Just to point out the history. I have said it before and will say it again: Water changes should be as a precaution. Generally I suggest doing water changes as a precaution to remove and dilute toxins and nutrients that either we don't know about or simply can't measure at all. GOLDFISH AQUARIUM WATER CHANGE FULLHowever, it relies on testing that is not available to most aquarists without access to a full lab. There are systems like the Triton system that have no water changes at all and the shock of changing water conditions is given as the reason. You would also need to test diligently to insure you are adding in anything the plants/corals need to grow. You want to make sure you are not adding in any extra minerals. If not over time the minerals in the water will build up giving you very hard water which will effect plant/coral growth. However, to do it he would need to only top off with RO/DI water. Plenty of people have this set up and some, like myself, think that it should be the goal of EVERY aquarist before they move into more advanced areas of the hobby. ![]() On the other hand, a lightly-stocked tank should conduct around 15 water change every week. ![]() Typically, a heavily-stocked aquarium needs to change around 25 of the water every week. That means that the nitrogen cycle is completed in the tank and nutrients do not rise over time. However, if the size of your goldfish is between 2 to 3 inches, you can keep 3 or 4 fish per 20 gallons of water. If you have set up a balanced tank, you don't actually "need" to do water changes at all. ![]()
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